Tuning Problems And Options
Tuning a bowed instrument takes practice, and it is important that the teacher show you proper tuning technique.
Most pegs on violins, violas and cellos are friction pegs. The pegs need to have a tapered, even, one-to-one fit with the reamed holes in the peg box. The pegs would stick in the holes if they were not lubricated, and so the violin shop will balance the degree of slip versus friction so that the pegs can be tuned smoothly, but still hold in place as desired. Because they are friction pegs, they still take a considerable amount of control in the arm to tune properly, and they need to be pushed in at just the right tension while tuning.
If they are turned up too fast, sometimes the string will break as you initially move the peg previously "seated" during the previous tuning. To avoid this always back the peg off first, and then tune up to the note.
If your pegs are popping out of the peg holes, then they may need to be pushed in a little harder as the string is tuned. It takes time to develop the proper feel for this.
Sometimes strings are not properly lapped over themselves when installed on the peg. In this case the string will slowly de-tune as it unwinds around the peg. In that situation the string needs to be re-wound around the peg.
Please ask your teacher to help with tuning problems. If they indicate that the peg is not functioning properly, please bring it in to be checked.
You might also want to be aware that there are now mechanical pegs on the market that look like friction pegs, but they have a sophisticated internal gearing system with a 4:1 ratio that is vastly easier to use, especially for beginners. There are two brands, one made by Wittner in Germany, and one made in the USA that is called the Perfection Peg. Both work well, and I install them here in my shop as an optional alternative to friction pegs.
Most pegs on violins, violas and cellos are friction pegs. The pegs need to have a tapered, even, one-to-one fit with the reamed holes in the peg box. The pegs would stick in the holes if they were not lubricated, and so the violin shop will balance the degree of slip versus friction so that the pegs can be tuned smoothly, but still hold in place as desired. Because they are friction pegs, they still take a considerable amount of control in the arm to tune properly, and they need to be pushed in at just the right tension while tuning.
If they are turned up too fast, sometimes the string will break as you initially move the peg previously "seated" during the previous tuning. To avoid this always back the peg off first, and then tune up to the note.
If your pegs are popping out of the peg holes, then they may need to be pushed in a little harder as the string is tuned. It takes time to develop the proper feel for this.
Sometimes strings are not properly lapped over themselves when installed on the peg. In this case the string will slowly de-tune as it unwinds around the peg. In that situation the string needs to be re-wound around the peg.
Please ask your teacher to help with tuning problems. If they indicate that the peg is not functioning properly, please bring it in to be checked.
You might also want to be aware that there are now mechanical pegs on the market that look like friction pegs, but they have a sophisticated internal gearing system with a 4:1 ratio that is vastly easier to use, especially for beginners. There are two brands, one made by Wittner in Germany, and one made in the USA that is called the Perfection Peg. Both work well, and I install them here in my shop as an optional alternative to friction pegs.